The 5-Minute Rule for Geyser Installation

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In this write-up I will certainly explain the common basic requirements of an audio, modern high pressure, straight setup. The complying with description connects to a modern high pressure (400/600Kpa) system typically made by Kwikot South Africa.




Less typical are old low stress systems (100kpa) open pipe or "Latco" kind systems. Know that the parts are NOT compatible between both distinct systems - High stress and also Low pressure! It is feasible to get rid of an old reduced stress system and also change it with a contemporary high stress system nonetheless - you buy a brand-new high pressure hot spring as well as mount it according to the present spec.




The geyser sits in a tray made of plastic (frequently red) or tin plate. I prefer the plastic ones.


Given that June 2001, the drip tray is not optional - its got to be there and also there has to be a drainpipe pipe for it! The drain is a 50mm PVC waste pipeline that drains the tray by piping the water out the home (geyser installation).

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The two vacuum cleaner breakers stand up and down regarding 30cm above the geyser. These are vital, as they stop water siphoning out the geyser when the cool supply is stopped - geyser installation.


It can be suggested that this is the primary function, however I don't see it. Keep in mind that vacuum breakers are a fairly brand-new requirement - there are still thousands of old HP systems out there without vacuum cleaner breakers as well as I am yet to see one collapse. Simply since I haven't seen it does not indicate it's not happening! It is additionally most likely to take place in a multi-story structure since the siphon can attract a much more powerful vacuum.


The cold water side is the side that directly connects to the drain cock and enters the hot spring at the bottom. After the turned off valve you would generally locate a Pressure Control Valve (PCV). There are a number of different types, mainly made from brass yet some are constructed from plastic.


This is where the PCV releases pressure and also this is the pipeline that often trickles. Do not stress if you can not locate the PCV following to the hot spring - it might be mounted up to 10 metres away, usually in more a much more obtainable position on a wall exterior. Often it remains in a little plastic box outside.

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This valve must have a steel (copper or steel) pipe linked to it as well as the pipe must lead directly out the building. This air vent pipe is a vital safety attribute of the whole system.


The T&P valve is the least optional component - it has to be there! - The weight of the geyser must be effectively supported on the roof covering trusses - a minimum of 2 assistances under the 'feet' of the geyser. If it looks unstable get a plumbing professional to examine it out.


The hot spring has to be earthed! I have seen many geysers with the earth cable unconnected. All the copper pipelines must additionally be earthed as well as bonded to the geyser planet.




Again, these are frequently just left existing next to the you could try these out geyser. There are essentially just two primary thermostat kinds - the contemporary round "Kwiktherm" in more recent Kwikot hot springs and the VK (rectangular block) key in older geysers as well as in some newer non-Kwikot units. The geyser might be fed (cool water) with polcop (plastic) pipe - approximately the closed off valve, however the pipe right into as well as out of the geyser need to be copper or galvanized steel.

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The hot water side must be copper, steel or suitably ranked (70) plastic or composite pipe. Keep in mind that you need to have at least 1m of copper/steel pipeline out the hot spring - you might not attach plastic (composite) pipe directly to the geyser. As above, the PCV and also T&P should be made from copper or steel - especially the vent out of the T&P shutoff.




I have actually seen a variety of setups where the installer has simply like this run a brief size of 22mm copper right into the drip tray with the concept being that the T&P can air vent directly right into the drip tray. A suggestion since the hot (100 +) water/steam melts the drip tray and also the PVC drain pipe.


The PCV is usually above the geyser and the cold water streams down right into the hot spring. This is quite crucial due to the fact that it forms an anti-syphon loophole that avoids the geyser from draining back through the inlet in case of a supply of water failing. If you obtain warm water appearing your chilly faucets when the water system stops working then this is not working properly.